Opening Moves and Replies in Backgammon

See also

• Early Strategy in Backgammon
• Backgammon: Basic Doubling Strategy (Part I)

Basic Principles.

There are 15 possible opening rolls (6-5, 6-4, 6-3, 6-2, 6-1, 5-4, 5-3, 5-2, 5-1, 4-3, 4-2, 4-1, 3-2, 3-1, 2-1), as it is not possible to roll a double for the opening roll.

TIP: With each move you have to consider offence and defence - the competing objectives of escaping your back checkers and blocking your opponent's checkers.

Let us look at some general guidelines for the opening stage of the game:

a) You do not want a sixth checker on any point unless there is no sensible alternative.

b) If you can escape a back checker to safety, it is usually right to do so.

c) Splitting the back checkers so that they occupy two different points is usually a good idea early on as it gives extra flexibility. After the opponent has made several new points it becomes more dangerous.

d) Bringing one or two checkers down from the 13-point (also known as the mid-point) to the nine-, ten- or 11-points is usually a good idea, unless the opponent has a checker six pips or fewer away from the checker you bring down. Such checkers are known as builders and can be used to make new points.

e) Usually it is right to hit an opposing checker on your five- or four-point. It is seldom right to hit on your three-, two- or ace-point, unless you are hitting two checkers, or you have made extra home-board points already.

f) Running a back checker out to the 14-, 15- or 16-point is playable if there is no reasonable alternative. If the checker is not hit you gain: if it is hit you suffer.

Replies to Opening Moves.
There are 21 possible rolls after each of the 15 opening moves, so it can be seen that the number of opening positions is quite large. Indeed, someone once calculated that there are more possible positions in backgammon than in chess. We will not confuse the reader with a mass of data here, but instead give practical guidelines:

Doubles.
1) There are six doubles which need to be considered, and the best play in each case will depend on the opponent's first move and how it was played:

1a) 6-6. If you can make both bar-points you should. If your opponent has made her bar-point (with a 6/1), then make your bar-point and your two-point with 13/7(2) 8/2(2).

1b) 5-5. If your opponent has split her back checkers, either with a major split or a minor split, then you should attack with 8/3(2) 6/1*(2). This primitive but very effective strategy is the start of a blitz. In diagram, White has played an opening 6-2 24/18 13/11 and Black's reply of 5-5 has put a checker on the bar, beginning a blitz:

If your opponent has not split her back checkers, then yon should just make the three-point with 13/3(2).

1c) 4-4. The correct play depends on whether you can hit any checkers. If you can, you should, and then use the other fours to make a new point, which may be your nine-point or your 20-point. If you cannot hit any checkers, play 24/20(2) 13/9(2).

WARNING: It is usually not worth giving up the eight-point to make the four-point, unless you are pointing on the opponent

1d) 3-3. Again the best play depends on whether you can hit any checkers and whether the opponent has made any new points. Usually you will make the 21-point and 10-point. If you are hitting a checker in your home board, you would make the five- and three-points.

1e) 2-2. Usually you make the four-point with 6/4(2) and 11-point with 13/11(2), or 22-point with 24/22(2). If the opponent has slotted her five-point, however, then you hit with 24/20* and make the four-point with 6/4(2). Do not use four twos to hit on the 16-point or three twos to hit on your bar-point.

1f) 1-1. If your opponent has not split her back checkers, or she has split to your five-point or bar-point, then make your five-point and bar-point with 8/7(2) 6/5(2). If the opponent has split to your four-point, play 6/4*(2). Otherwise make the five-point with 6/5(2) and split at the back with 24/22.

Non-Doubles.
These moves are often played in the same way as the opening rolls. We will mainly mention here when they should be played differently. We have retained the original lettering system, so that you may refer back to that recommendation:
a) 3-1 b) 4-2 c) 6-1 and d) 5-3. These point-making rolls are generally played as for the opening rolls. There are a few exceptions. If you can hit a checker on the opponent's side of the board, or on your nine-, ten, or 11-point, then you should. However, do not vary from the original strategy to hit a checker on your seven-point.

e) 6-4 and f) 6-5. These are generally played the same way, by running. An exception is that if your opponent has made a minor split with 24/23, then you should use a 6-4 to point on that checker with 8/2* 6/2.

g) 6-3. If you can hit a checker on the opponent's side of the board or your own bar-point, do so. Generally you play as for the opening roll, except if your opponent has made a major split. In that case running with 24/15 is better, unless she has split to your four-point when you should hit with 13/4*.

h) 6-2. Similarly, you should hit on your 16-point or your bar-point, five-point or four-point if possible. Otherwise play as for the opening roll.

i) 5-4. Hit on the opponent's side of the board ifyou can: otherwise usually play as for the opening roll. If your opponent has brought two builders down from her mid-point, do not play 24/20: instead play 13/8 13/9.

j) 4-3. Usually play as for the opening roll. If you can hit on your five-point or four-point you should, and if you can hit two checkers you should. Usually if you hit with one number, then you split at the back with the other number.

k) 3-2. If you can hit two checkers then you should. If your opponent has split to her 21- or 22-point then this will be possible, so look out for this. Hit on your five-point or four-point if you can. Otherwise you should play as for the opening roll, unless your opponent has split to your bar-point, when 24/21 24/22 is better.

l) 5-1. Usually play the normal move. If the opponent has split to your bar-point, then hit two checkers with 8/7* 6/1*. Hit on your five-point if your opponent has played 24/20.

m) 4-1. Again, usually play as for the opening roll. If your opponent has split to your five-point then the double hit with 6/5* 5/1* is correct. If your opponent has split to your four-point, then you should hit with 8/4* and play 24/23.

n) 2-1. If you can hit a checker (except on your three-point), then do so. Otherwise play the normal move, unless your opponent has played 24/16. when you should play 24/21.

o) 5-2. Usually play the normal move. If you can hit on your four-point or 11-point with the two, then you should.

Overleaf there is a chart of the opening moves and a good alternative if one exists.

NOTE: Although slotting is a good alternative with an opening 5-1 and 2-1, playing 13/9 6/5 with an opening 4-1 is a lot worse than splitting. In addition to leaving the opponent a direct four to hit, she also has 6-2 and 5-3

In five cases, there is no good alternative. There is sometimes a third option, however. In particular 8/2 6/2 with a 6-4 is fine and leads to an interesting game. Also 13/9 13/10 is fine writh a 4-3. Finally 13/8 for a 3-2 shares a psychological benefit with 13/8 for a 4-1. It gives your opponent the wrong impression that you are a weak player and know nothing about making new points!

One other factor to bear in mind is the strength of the opponent. Generally the slotting plays with an ace lead to more complicated positions, and should be preferred against a weaker player. In addition, bringing down builders from the mid-point tends to lead to priming games. These types of game are usually more difficult to play, and therefore ideal for the stronger player. If you are the weaker player, then you should avoid slotting and seek a less-complicated running game.