Early Strategy in Backgammon
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Blocking the opponent.
If the only strategy in backgammon were to move the checkers around the board as quickly as possible, then it would not be a particularly interesting game. However, each player should combine the aim of bringing his own checkers into his home board with a strategy of blocking the opponent.
The way to impede the opponent's progress is to build a series of points in a row.
The opponent cannot move onto a point occupied by two or more of your checkers, and several such points in a row form a formidable obstacle. For example:
Black has moved all but one of her checkers into her home board, and, at first glance, would appear to be ahead in the race to take off checkers. However, White has formed a blockade of six points in a row on his side of the board and has trapped a black checker behind it. Black will not be able to move that checker until White lifts this blockade. Such a blockade is known as a prime, and, as this one consists of six consecutive points, it is called a six-prime. A prime with a gap in it is known as a broken prime. The term "prime" is normally used only for four or more consecutive points with no more than one gap. White's winning chances in Figure 1 are around 90%. His strategy will be to retain six points in a row while hitting the black checker at the edge of the prime. Unless White is very unlucky, his six-prime will roll to the right, and the black checker should eventually be closed out. with White making all six points in his board. White will thus begin bearing off first.
The aims of the opening.
In the early stages there is much jockeying for position. Each player starts the game with four occupied points, but two of these have five checkers each, more than are needed. In the early stages the players attempt to make new blocking points, using these surplus checkers. For example, let us look at an opening roll of 3-1. This is regarded as the strongest opening roll, even though it contains only four pips. The correct way to play it is as in Figure 2:
White moves one checker from his eight-point to his five-point and one checker from his six-point to his five-point. This move is notated 8/5 6/5. The new point which White has made prevents Black from moving a four with a checker on White's one-point. Of course not all rolls allow you to make a new point.
Indeed, of the opening rolls, only five allow you to do so (6-1, 3-1, 4-2, 5-3 and 6-4), and the last of these is as often as not played without making a new point. When you roll anything else you will either have to move a checker from one occupied point to another or move a checker to a vacant point.
Generally, in the opening, it pays to take a few risks by moving checkers to unoccupied points in an effort to make new blocking points.
Although the opponent may hit a lone checker and send it to the bar. in the early stages this is not serious. The correct way to play most opening rolls involves leaving one or more checkers exposed.
The important points.
Sometimes we have a choice of points to make in the opening. The most important points on the board are each player's five-point. If we can make our five-point we usually should. If we can make the opponent's five-point we also usually should, as this both makes a new point of our own and prevents the opponent from making it.
This position has occurred after one move by each side. White rolled a 2-1 which he played 24/23 13/11 and Black replied with a 4-2, which she played 8/4 6/4, making her four-point. White has now rolled a 6-1 and can make either the seven-point with 13/7 8/7 or the five-point with 11/5 6/5. The latter is stronger.
The five-point is the most important point on the board.
The value of the other points can vary, but usually the seven-point (also known as the bar-point) and the four-point are about equal, as are the eight-point and three-point. Generally the nine-point is better than the two-point. Whether to make one's own point or to make the same point on the opponent's side of the board depends on the priorities in the position.
Hitting checkers.
If an opponent's checker is hit, it is placed on the bar and must re-enter before any other checker can be moved. Does this mean that it is always correct to hit an opposing checker? By no means. Firstly, the location of the opposing checker is an important factor. If yon hit an opposing checker in the opponent's half of the board, that checker is sent back much further than if you hit a checker in your home board. However, other factors come into play in the opening. It is often correct to hit the opponent's checker when it is occupying a point you want to make. For example:
Black rolled an opening 5-4 and played 13/8 24/20. This is one of the best ways for Black to play this roll. Now White rolls a 2-1. The correct play is 13/11 6/5 leading to the following position:
It is true that Black may well now hit the checker on White's five-point. However, being hit in the opening is not a disaster, and if Black does not hit. White has an excellent chance to cover the checker on his five-point next roll. Black is a slight favourite to hit, but the risk is worth taking.
There is an oft-quoted adage in backgammon which should stand the beginner in good stead:
When in doubt, hit!
However, there are some exceptions. Usually it is wrong to hit on your own one-point (also known as the ace-point) or two-point (often called the deuce-point) in the opening. Hitting two checkers is usually right and again there is a proverb: "Two on the bar is better by far!"
One other aspect of the opening to mention is that you often have a choice between hitting a checker and making a new point. Usually hitting is stronger.
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